See in the dark while driving your favourite B-road with a decent set of Cibies. Here’s how to fit spotlights.
We’ve all been there. A dark B-road on a cloudy December night, you’ve got your right foot down, trying to get home in time to catch Eastenders, and your Ford’s window wipers are going like the clappers to deal with a downpour of biblical proportions. Trouble is, you’re never going to get to see the latest drama-packed instalment, because you can only do 30 mph thanks to your stock classic Ford lights being less effective at illuminating the road than a sickly glowworm’s bottom.
We all love our classic Fords, but it’s fair to say that the stock lighting on them leaves a lot to be desired. Luckily, there’s help at hand in the form of aftermarket lighting, and we can’t think of anything better than bolting a set of Cibie Oscars. Here’s how.
Mounting the brackets
Offer the brackets up to the bodywork. Bear in mind where you lamps will sit, then mark up the drill holes with a fibre-tip pen.
With your drill holes marked up you’ll need to use a punch (or anything that’ll create a small dent for the drill bit to sit in) to allow your drill bit to bite into the metal and not squirm off to the side.
Use a small drill bit to create a pilot hole (check that there’s nothing behind where you’re drilling), this will bite into the metal more easily than a larger diameter one. Then use a drill bit with a diameter just larger than the bolt to create the proper hole.
With your four holes drilled attach your two brackets with the bolts provided — make sure they’re fully tightened as spotlights are heavy bits of kit.
Once the brackets are on, just bolt your lamps on to the pre-drilled platform.
You need to find the wire which operates full beam on your headlights — check each wire that comes from behind the headlight assembly with a multimeter or circuit detection screwdriver and activate full beam on the steering column.
Disconnect the battery. Once you’ve located the right wire for the full beam circuit you need to take a feed from it. To do this you’ll need to splice in a separate wire — remember to give your new wire plenty of length. We chopped the wire we wanted to take the feed from about 5 inches from where it connects to the back of the headlamp.
Feed 2 inches of heat shrink wrap over the end of the wire attached to the loom, then attach the wire from the loom, the 5 inches of wire from the headlamp connection and the new feed wire.
To do this we exposed around an inch of each wire before soldering them together then moved the heat shrink over the soldered area and, using the still hot soldering iron, shrank the wrap in place.
With the activation wire spliced into the main full-beam circuit, you need to mount your relay. We mounted ours on the wing closest to the battery. For ease we used a pre-drilled hole in the wing top to secure the relay, but you can drill a hole and mount the relay wherever you want.
With the unit fixed you need to earth it to the body. Take a length of wire and attach a ring connector to one end and a female spade connector to the other. Connect the spade end to the male spade connector on the relay and the ring connector over the screw holding the relay in place.
The next step is to attach the activation wire from the full beam circuit to the relay. To keep it all neat we decided to drill a hole in the inner wing to run the wire through and up to the relay with as little of the wire showing as possible.
You need a live feed from the battery. Cut a piece of wire to the appropriate length, attach a suitably-sized ring connector to one end and a female spade connector to the other. Now attach the ring connector to the live (red) battery terminal and the other end to the appropriate male spade connector on the relay.
Run a wire to from the relay to the nearest lamp. Attach a female connector, and at the other end a connector to fit to the one on the back of your lamp. Cut a length of wire to go between the two lamps. Take one end and the lamp end of the other wire coming from the relay, fix them into the connector and attach to the first lamp. You should now have one wire unconnected — this needs to be attached to the back of the other lamp.
Go through your new wiring and, using cable ties, tidy it all up by attaching it to the bodywork or other fixed components to prevent it flapping around and catching on moving components. Reconnect the battery terminal, and switch your lights on!
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